 Inspecting
a used car
What to look for while inspecting a Used Car :
 When
you have located the car you want to buy the first exercise you do is
inspecting the cars papers. You have to check the cars documents and make
sure that you are satisfied before you spend time performing the cars
mechanical inspection. Check the cars registration book and the taxation
papers. The registration book will show the date / place of registration
and history of ownership. You need to be more cautious if the registration
book is a duplicate copy issued by the RTO. You can get a RTO verification by paying a small fee to an independent RTO agent, all you need is the
photocopy of the registration and taxation book. If the car is registered
in another state or if the road tax or insurance has not been paid make
sure you deduct the appropriate amount from the price.
Get more info on documents
Take a longish Test Drive -
 It
is wise to make the test drive last longer than 15 minutes, so that the
car is thoroughly heated up. In fact, stretch out the test drive for as
long as possible. The car should start easily and without excessive noise.
Once the car has warmed up, listen for engine noise as you drive; unusual
sounds may be signs of major trouble. Watch for unusual vibrations or
odors.
Mechanical Inspection :
NEVER buy a used vehicle without having an independent mechanic inspect
it first.
 Take help of the mechanic you or your friend can trust. If you’re shopping
at a dealership, do not have the dealership’s service department conduct
this inspection; they’re not exactly an unbiased third party. Tell the
independent mechanic that you are considering purchasing the vehicle,
and have them check everything out and jot down on paper any problems
they may find. If anything suspicious turns up, ask for a repair estimate.
If the problem sounds too complex or too expensive to deal with, don’t
buy the car. If the problem is relatively minor but will still require
attention, take the printed statement to the seller and use it as a bargaining
chip for a better price.
Inspecting
a Used Car -
BODY - look for rust, particularly at the bottoms of fenders, around lights
and bumpers, on splash panels, under doors, in the wheel wells, and
under trunk carpeting. Small "blisters" may indicate future rust sites.
Check for paint that does not quite match, gritty surfaces, and paint
overspray on chrome-all possible signs of a new paint job, masking body
problems. Look for cracks, dents, and loose bumpers-warning signs of
a past accident.
TIRES - Uneven wear on the front tires usually indicates either
bad alignment, or front suspension damage. Do not forget to check the
condition of the spare tire.
DOORS, WINDOWS, TRUNK LID - Look for a close fit and ease of
opening and closing. A door that fits unevenly may indicate that the
car was involved in a collision.
WINDOW GLASS AND LIGHTS - Look for hairline cracks and tiny
holes.
TAILPIPE - Black, gummy soot in the tailpipe may mean worn rings,
or bad valves, and expensive repairs.
SHOCK ABSORBERS - Lean hard on a corner of the car and release;
if the car keeps rocking up and down, the shocks may need replacing.
FLUIDS - Oil that is a whitish color, or has white bubbles,
can be a sign of major mechanical problems. Check the radiator fluid;
it should not look rusty. With the engine idling, check the transmission
fluid; it should not smell rancid, or look dark brown. Check for leaks
and stains under the car, on the underside of the engine, and around
hoses and valve covers.
LIGHTS AND MECHANICAL PARTS - Make sure all headlights, taillights,
brake lights, backup lights, and direction signals work properly. Test
the radio, heater, air conditioner, and windshield wipers.
INTERIOR - Check the upholstery for major wear and tear; do
not forget to look under floor mats and seat covers. Check the steering
wheel; unlocked, with the engine off, it should have no more than two
inches of "play."
A car with low mileage, but with a lot of wear on the driver's seat
or the brake and accelerator, may indicate tampering with the odometer.
A musty smell inside the vehicle could mean that the car was damaged
in a flood, or that rain leaks inside the car.
Emission - Emission
norms are getting tighter and that's good for you....
 Emissions
tests may also warn you of impending costs. If a car catalytic convertor
is emitting borderline levels of hydrocarbons, the catalytic converter
may soon need to be replaced. But by then, installing a new catalytic
converter is probably only one small part of the solution: high emissions
could be due to cracked or worn valve seals, malfunctioning fuel injectors,
a bad oxygen sensor, clogged fuel filter, improper timing, or an indication
that the previous owner simply did not take good care of the car by
performing regular oil changes. In the worst case, the engine might
need to be completely overhauled. In any case, you don’t want to buy
a used car that will spend all of its time in the shop costing more
money. If it can’t pass the emissions test, the car cannot be licensed,
and you cannot use it for transportation. If the dealership sold the
car "as is," the repair work is your own responsibility. Make the emissions
test a must.
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