After much brainstorming we decided to return via Srinagar. The drive from Leh to Kargil was very picturesque since the road goes thru a number of villages. Where there is habitation, there is help at hand. Anxiety level was low. Though the road was narrow, the surfacing was pretty good. The worst that could happen was overtaking a convoy. The terrain turned from rocky, sandy to absolutely dusty. After Lamayuru nearing Fotula everything was just fine dust which entered the vehicle every which way. 233kms and 7.5 hours later we arrived at Kargil at 4 pm. Army, army, army. It looks like a battle zone alright with bunkers next to each office. I was surprised to see a number of Boleros at the the Kargil taxi stand. We also visited a grain grinding mill which uses river water as the driving force. Open 24 hrs!! At Drass we drove on the short strip of road protected by a high stone wall - the favourite artillery practice target for Pakistani gunners.

Since only one way vehicle movement was allowed after midnite from Kargil to Srinagar, we departed at 12.40am. Since there was negligible oncoming traffic, we drove comfortably to Ghumri 90kms away. At Ghumri we joined a long line of vehicles waiting to cross Zojila Pass. We caught a few winks till 4.30am when the traffic was allowed to move. All of a sudden I saw cars to the left and to the right racing like crazy. It was pitch dark and except for the kuccha road, visibility was zilch. I thought the other drivers had gone mad. Everybody was rushing as if the pass would vanish! Keeping my sanity and my eyes on the road 20 ft ahead of me, I drove carefully. There is no road over Zojila. Just a track with stones, rubble, mud. In the dark, one could see nothing of the mountains. You just followed the taillights of the vehicle in front. Finally when we descended to a valley, the light had improved and then I knew why everyone was in a rush.

Ahead of us was a long line of vehicles. To the right was an open ground by a river where the army had a couple of cabins. Each vehicle had to drive slowly to the cabins over a designated path and stop. The vehicle was emptied of baggage and passengers. A sniffer dog and metal detector toting jawans checked each item of baggage and frisked the passengers thoroughly. Once the inspection was over, the vehicle proceeded towards Sonmarg. This entire process took at least 30 minutes per vehicle and only on vehicle was checked at a time. I dreaded the thought of unloading all the stuff. When our turn came, the dog, a golden Lab, jumped into the car and sniffed all over. The jawan looked at the number plate and asked "kahan se ayein hain?" Pune we said. Turned out he was a Grenadier and had happy memories of Pune. "Arre sir, aapke gadi ko kya check karenge". He glanced cursorily at the baggage and asked us to go on. We were out in 5 mins!!! Thanking our stars we headed for Srinagar.

The valley of Kashmir took our breath away. Meadows, fir, pine, deodhars. A sight for the Gods. The road to Srinagar was peppered with armed jawans all along. The drive through Sonmarg is unforgettable. At Srinagar, we found a room in a hotel opposite Dal lake. The weather was warm. It even rained! We seemed to be the only tourists around. Visited Chasme Shahi, Nishat and Shalimar gardens and took a shikara ride on the lake. Enjoyed Kashmiri food at Linz and Ahdoo's. Drove to Gulmarg to spend a night. Took the cable car up. Breakfasted on the lawn of the still impeccably maintained Gulmarg Golf Club where the last tournament was played in 1987 and whose greens are now grazing grounds for ponies and cattle. In Kashmir, the army was everywhere.

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