Downwind...

Down the Chandra river valley, past Batal (from where one can trek to the exquisite Chandra Tal, the Moon Lake), across Gramphoo, up again to the giddy heights of the Rohtang Pass and then downwind to Manali. Green Manali. Trees again. Metal road again. Petrol again. Life again.

A day of soaking in the sun at Vashist. From the hotel terrace, we admire the vernacular architecture of the neighbouring temple. Bells ring, kirtan chants mingle with techno music, dogs pee in the narrow, crowded lanes, a tribe of flower children search for answers in a chillum, a tracksuited European plays football with the street urchins, women wash clothes in the hot springs. All is well with the world.

On the way back, a detour past Manikaran to Phulga, site for a proposed hydel project bigger than the Bhakra Nangal. The road, if you could call it that, ends here.

We leave our faithful Santro for the first time, and complete a thrilling night trek through forest and hill to Khirganga, throne of rolling meadows. (It's also good opium country.) An Australian tourist attempted the same two months earlier and was never seen again, our guide informs us cheerfully after we reach camp!

It feels good to stretch our legs again. To sprawl out at the teashop and play games of chess with backpackers on a small magnetic board in the flickering candlelight. Bishops clash swords with footsoldiers, Tibet gnaws a bone noisily, a kettle whistles in the kitchen. The saga is nearing the end.

Nineteen days after we left Mumbai, we're back where we'd started. Not once over the entire 5000 kilometre stretch we clocked did the Santro falter, protest or lose heart. And the only change in its appearance was the sheen of dust on the bodywork - its mountain tan, if you like - that spoke of an experience that can't be shared. Or written about. It has to be lived.

Sandhu and I are now back to the busy life. Tibet, born traveller, is fast making friends in Mumbai. Santro MH 04 AP 8960 is a part of the city traffic.

But for all four of us, the trip is still on.