The Journey
We set out from Pune
on 2nd June. Normally rains in Pune are supposed to begin @ 10th of June,
but what's normal anymore? Global warming and el polluto de la enviro
are screwing up the climate anyway. Rains could start a week before or
a month after. Our first stop was Paud, @ 30 kms from my house from where
we began. We would make our way to Lonavala by the back-roads, avoiding
the Pune-Bombay highway altogether. This is a very little known road with
very little traffic, and has lots of curves and hills and ups and downs
and some very good scenery. As opposed to this back-road, the Pune-Bombay
highway (NH4) is the absolute pits : heavvy traffique, huge trucks and
buses and speeding cars, lots of exhaust polluto and the ever present
possibility of being run over, seeing as our puny scooterettes could hardly
keep up with competing traffic, much less overtake it. Also El-coppos
exist on NH4, but no coppos on the back-roads. In any case, scooterettes
are designed purely for slow, clogged, city traffic and are not supposed
to run on highways such as NH4. We had our fill of Pau-Shampull and hot
tea at Paud. For those who don't know, Pau-Shampll (also known as Paw-Sample,
or paav-shample) is a cheap, typically Western Maharashtra, downmarket
dish, in which Pau is desi bread (not the branded, upmarket, sliced-wrapped-in-plastic
type, but the kind popular in down-market areas, and is extensively used
in "Wada-Pau" or wada-paav, again a typical cheap, Bombay-Pune snack).
The Shampull is a red-hot watery gruel of saboot moong or a mix of some
such lentils. The key component here is the blood-red color of the Shampull,
the red of course coming from high temperature chilli, as in CHILL-aa-O
: EEEEE, which is what you will scream if you are not used to withstanding
that kind of chilli !! I love it. The riders had to eat only that, or
go hungry. "Nakhra kiya to fail kar doonga". After all they were my students.
Besides, budget was tight. We couldn't really afford Champagne and Caviar,
or even Chicken Biryani and Veg. Jal Frezi. Besides, Dal-Roti is not available
in the back-woods interiors of Maharashtara. I've said it before and am
saying it again, on my shootouts the terms are : "Eat in the dhaba - sleep
on the ground -shit in the jungle and wash in the river". It works everytime.
From Paud, we rode upto Mulshi gate. This gate is the entrance to the
environs of Mulshi Dam, behind which is Mulshi lake, which is the largest
body of water in Pune district. Mulshi dam is part of Tata Electric, the
legacy laft behind for us by the legendary Jamshedji (Dadhiwala) Tata,
the founder of the Tata empire, who trekked 100 years ago in these very
hills where I trek now. We turned right towards Valnay, @ a hundred metres
before Mulshi gate. We crossed the river and climbed up the Mulshi Hairpin
bends, which stretch is my favourite stamping ground for Roat Tests, especially
for measuring Low-End-Torque (LET), not least because not only the slope
is steep, but even the road surface is EXTREMELY BAD. So you can't really
do "cornering-funda-baazi", even with a Bullet or Shogun, what to talk
of scooterettes and Streets and K4s. Which means that at each hairpin,
you've got to come to near zero and then pull, which is when LET capacity
shows up.
While the two four-strokers Street and K4 made it fairly well as expected,
the Pride and Scooty also made it without stalling, with the Pride doing
slightly better than the Scooty in this section. The LML Trendy being
ridden by 'lambu' Sam Godbole started groaning, but a few leg-pushes a
few times by the rider managed to take it to the top. Bajaj's Spirit however
gave up and its engine died on four of the six hairpin bends. The rider,
Dr.Sethna (whom everyone called Doc) had to dismount and push. He was
quite angry. "Hey Dilip" he screamed, "I am a effing doctor. I am not
supposed to push kaput bikes up slopes on a hot June afternoon!"
"I never said this is going to be a joy ride Doc", I yelled back. "you
volunteered".
"OK ya bastard", he said, "you come to my clinic next time, I'll give
you the most painful injection you've ever had!" I kept quiet. What could
I say? He wasn't my student and couldn't fail him.
From slope-top onwards the ride was dandy. The road surface quality improved
greatly. The curves on the road were a pleasure to negotiate since there
was no traffic. Not even humans on foot. Then it started raining. Not
heavy, but enough to slow us down. We all stopped and everyone took their
respective anti-rain material from the Sumo and wore it. We moved on.
More slopes were encountered after Valnay. These slopes were not only
steep, they were also very long, so that whatever momentum Bajaj Spirit
and LML Trendy had garnered on the level road before the incline began,
got dissipated (used up) before they could reach the top. Consequently
push came to shove and these two had to be given triple treatment to get
to the top. First was leg-push assistance while riding the bikes (see
photo). This PUSH however wasn't enough. So it came to SHOVE. Both got
shoved from behind by Amol riding the K4 (see photo). Even this wasn't
enough. So finally both had to dismount and walk the bikes to the top
(see photo). The Scooty and the Pride made it without any assistance.
The K4 and the Street, being geared, glided up effortlessly.
Mild rain continued indifferently. It wasn't debilitating but the roads
were wet. There was much slush and keechad in parts. Milind Raut skidded
and fell from the Pride. Injury not much but the front brake lever (RH)
broke. Brake still operative. So no problem. Besides the Pride can do
very well on just the rear brake alone. Meanwhile the Scooty main stand
got loose and started doing khad-khad. It had to be tied (see pic). We
reached the rise before INS Shivaji @ 18:00 p.m. The view from here is
breathtaking. From here the route would take us thru part of Lonavala
and we would have to join the bluddy Pune-Bombay road for a while to make
our way down (aati kya?) Khandala Ghat upto Khopoli. (The Chinese call
it Koh Poh Lee).
At Khopoli we left the god forsaken Bombay road and headed for Pen where
we had the only decent meal of the whole trip. Pen is in Raigarh (Raigad)
district which is part of the coastal Konkan belt of Maharashtra. Everybody
ate fish. We could have got cheaper fish in Alibag, our destination, but
it would be quite late by the time we got there and since Alibag is not
on the Bombay-Goa highway (NH 17), people sleep early and no eating joint
would be open. Pen however is bang on the highway, so you can get food.
Alibag, we headed straight for the beach and slept in the open. Morning
we had to get up early since we had to crap in the open - which becomes
socially unacceptable if people are around. Now for all of us, Tea is
an essential ingredient for inducing el-crappo. We went around looking
for tea, which we found soon enough. But by the time we had the tea, the
whole town was up and about. It figures. Since these people sleep early,
they get up early too. We had to abandon the beach crap idea and promptly
headed south towards Murud.
This part of the journey was the most picturesque. On our right were pristine
beaches and the sea (see map). On our left was a lot of greenery. We had
breakfast at Revadanda, crossed the creek bridge (see pic) and reached
Murud before noon. We did much water frolicking on the beach between Murud-on-the-coast,
and Janjira Fort, which is on an island and can be reached only by boat
(see photo). We couldn't visit the fort because more because of shortage
of money than time - the boatmen have a cartel and they charge too much.
We had a third class lunch at Murud and headed inland towards Mahad on
the Bombay-Goa highway (NH 17). On this stretch we passed some very beautiful
places. The Vikram Vinayak Mandir at Sanjay Nagar was one of them (see
pic). It is open 6:30 a.m. to 11:00 a.m. and then from 4:30 p.m. to 9:00
p.m. The Mandir is spotlessly clean and well maintained and the staff
is very courteous (since it is not sarkari). Also there is no entry fee
but photography / videography are not allowed.
Other notable places were the Yesday Bungalow society hidden behind thick
foliage on a hill slope, adjacent to the Yesday Hill Club Resort (pic).
Further on, we saw some ancient caves high up on a hill slope. I couldn't
resist going up. So we parked the vehicles and some of us climbed up while
some stayed behind to look after our bikes and Sumo (see pic). We passed
Mahad in the evening and turned left, off the highway, towards Varandha.
However, we also wanted to visit Shiv-Thar-Ghal. Ghal is a marathi word
for a huge cave like crevasse in a mountainside. ShivTharGhal is the Ghal
where Samarth Ramdas Swami stayed and wrote the DAAS-BODH many
hundred years ago. To reach ShivTharGhal, we had to take a 17 km detour
off the road going to Varandha. This detour takes you thru some excellent
forest. We walked around the ShivThar campus and had some second grade
dal-chawal at the Dharamshala for which we were overcharged.
By the time we finished dinner it was almost 22:00 p.m. and we rode on
to the top of Varandha Ghat, parked for the night next to an abandoned
hut, and crashed in the open. We couldn't sleep inside the hut because
it was stiniking due to too much bull-shit, cow-dung and bat-crap strewn
all over the floor and we were too fagged out to do any cleaning. Besides,
outside was cool and fresh and no hint of rain.
Come next morning and we just got up and rode off. No crappo, no brush-0,
since there was no water. We had some third class breakfast at a tea shop
called Hotel Jai Bhavani on the slope down from Varandha, after which
we headed for Hirdoshi where we would crap at the same place I have been
crapping with different groups every year since April 1996 !! From Hirdoshi
we did a full-zip, 40 km, ride to Kapurhole on the Pune-Bangalore highway
(NH 4) without stopping at Bhor. We had a sumptuous lunch at Amrita Hotel
at Kapurhole and rode back full zip to Pune. End of journey. Total distance
= 460 kms. WHAT A TRIP !!!
Read the full story ( Scooterette
Wars ) -
Background | The Bikes | The Riders | The Journey | The Performance | The
Economics |